Going...Going...Gone!
The exciting world of auction coffees explained.
By Andrew Bowman
| Cupping tables at the Best of Panama Competition |
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Tony’s has purchased three auction coffees this year and we look forward to sharing them with you. The purpose of coffee auctions is to single out the best coffees from the best farms and to show the effort and care that farmers put into their work. This allows customers to have a closer connection to where their coffees are coming from and who is growing them. The reward for farmers is recognition and feedback ultimately resulting in a greater demand for their coffees in the future. The outcome is a selection of exemplary coffees that have outstanding character as a direct result of harvesting practices, processing, and terroir. The farmers also make significantly more money for their winning coffees.
The protocol for choosing coffees that will be eligible for auction is strict. Coffees are first cupped by a national jury that is selected by the auction committee from from a pool of exporters, cooperatives, coffee organizations and/or farms. All coffees must receive a score of 84 or higher on a 100 point scale to move on to the next round of judging. Next the coffees are scrutinized by an international jury. The members making up this jury are experienced cuppers who pay their own way from all over the world with the same goal of maintaining the highest standards while scoring the coffees. They spend a week cupping and discussing their notes with each other and with the head judge. In the end, all coffees will have been cupped 5 to 6 times. The top scoring coffees are awarded their positions in the auction in a ceremony attended by both juries and producers.
Once the winners are announced, interested roasters and importers sign up to participate in the auction. This entails paying for samples of all of the auction coffees which are shipped directly from origin in an unroasted form. Buyers then sample roast all of the coffees in a consistent manner and evaluate them similarly to the way the juries did. It is now time to decide which coffee(s) to buy and hope you have the winning bid. For us the result is three amazing coffees that we are proud to offer to our customers...while they last.
Andrew Bowman is Roaster Operations Manager in Bellingham
To learn more about Tony’s current auction coffees:
Los Amates—2008 El Salvador Cup of Excellence Winner.
Heirloom Bourbon.
Batch #9 La Esmeralda Panama Geisha—2008 world famous Geisha
at its finest.
Café Suárez—2008 Best Catuai Varietal Winner at the SCAP
Best of Panama Competition.
Tony’s About Town
By Shelby Chambers
Tony’s Coffee was happy to participate in the 2nd annual Cascade Harvest Coalition’s Food Lust. This was an evening where farmers, fishermen, and chefs joined for a culinary night of fun and excitement. CHC works to support preservation and revitalization of the food and farm systems in Washington by addressing the needs for greater unity and a stronger voice within the agricultural and local food producing community.
To learn more please visit www.cascadeharvest.org
In recognition of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, we partnered with Vashon Thriftway and donated $1.00 for every pound of Tony’s Coffee sold at their store in the month of April to the Susan B. Komen Foundation. This year we were able to donate over $1,000.00! Thanks to all of you who supported this effort.
If you have an upcoming special event scheduled, please let us know! Contact Shelby Chambers at shelby@tonyscoffee.com.
Shelby Chambers is Territory Manager in Seattle
Destination: Papua New Guinea
Quality continues to improve at the Kiam Mill
By Wendy De Jong
I just returned from my second visit to Papua New Guinea, with a week in Goroka to cup coffees and make selections for our upcoming new crop line up, and attend the groundbreaking launch of the CIC’s 10 year Coffee Industry Strategic Plan; and a week in Mt. Hagen in the Western Highlands, Waghi Valley to continue my work with the managers of Kiam Mill to see firsthand the results of their continuing efforts to improve quality.
| Wendy cupping with Bob Hargraves and Bryan Leahy |
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This is our third year working with Kiam Mill and the coffees keep getting better and better. The mill managers, Bob Hargraves and Patrick Killoran have very deep roots in Papua New Guinea coffee. Bob himself has planted hundreds of hectares of coffee in the remarkably rich and fertile soil of the Waghi Valley since the 1980’s. It is quite an experience to drive the one paved road through the highlands with coffee on each side as far as the eye can see with someone like Bob, who will frequently interrupt himself to comment on the details of planting this or that coffee farm as we pass.
Sadly, many of these large farms have become very neglected owing to land rights disputes among various tribes. The vast majority of coffee in PNG is produced by smallholders who have 2 hectares or less devoted to coffee production and traditionally these farms have not been associated with producing the highest quality exportable coffees, but due to the dedication of people like Bob at Kiam Mill, and renewed efforts by the CIC and others, that is beginning to change.
I am not alone in my conviction that Papua New Guinea has the potential to produce coffees of unparalleled quality and character. It was very inspiring to visit everyone along the chain, all the way to the shipping port in Lae and see the renewed dedication to producing coffees of exceptional quality.
Tony’s is very proud to launch our newest offering from Kiam mill, available mid-August. You simply must try this coffee and see for yourself.
Wendy De Jong is Vice President & Director of Coffee
Wayward in Greenwood
World traveler brings home inspiring vision to coffeehouse
By Rosie Germond
Reflective of the wayward spirit, Wayward Coffeehouse in the Greenwood neighborhood of Seattle serves up more than a delicious cup of Tony’s coffee. Bronwyn, owner of Wayward Coffeehouse, has served espresso in Australia, Ireland and Boston, although her first espresso experience was working as a barista for Tony’s Coffees in Fairhaven.
Bronwyn has combined her knowledge of espresso with various life experiences to create a unique coffeehouse that offers a place for customers to connect, and for strangers to become friends. In addition to creating a sense of community, the Wayward Coffeehouse is also environmentally conscious. Bronwyn focuses on sustainability through composting, recycling, and the use of biodegradable cups.
From sci-fi themed specialty drinks to a weekly poetry open mic night, the Wayward Coffeehouse is sure to satisfy your Tony’s coffee fix and more!
Rosie Germond is Assistant Distribution Manager in Bellingham
Who’s Who? Carmen Gwin
From pulling shots to pulling the shots—the rise of veteran Tony’s employee Carmen Gwin.
By Haylee Zike
When Tony’s employees think of someone who knows just about everything to do with Tony’s, we all think of Carmen Gwin. She has been with the company for 27 years and thankfully, isn’t planning on leaving anytime soon.
Carmen began her career at Tony’s as the friendly face behind the counter serving carefully prepared coffee drinks. Once her gift for numbers was discovered she was enlisted to help with the bookkeeping. She quickly moved into a management role at the Fairhaven location in Bellingham, Washington.
When Tony’s decided to focus exclusively on roasting coffee, the coffee shop was sold and the roasting plant moved to North Bellingham. Carmen became the lead roaster for Tony’s, overseeing everything having to do with roasting coffee; green coffee purchasing, trafficking and inventory, roasting the beans and packaging the finished product. Carmen continued to lead the production department for 10 years until the birth of her son. Making good on her accounting degree, she accepted a job in the Bellingham office as the Accounts Payable Manager.
Carmen says she really enjoys working at Tony’s, “I get to work with great people who are dedicated to creating and selling a quality product. And, I get to drink great coffee all day.” Carmen’s favorite coffee is our Organic, Fair Trade Carmelita (Yes, we named it after her!) But not because of the name she says, but “because of the nice balance and smoothness.” She recommends a Carmelita Americano, so check it out next time you are at a coffee shop serving Tony’s Coffee!
Haylee Zike is Warehouse Supervisor in Seattle
Monin Syrups
What’s your favorite?
By Amber Paulson
 La Passion de la Qualité (“Passion for Quality”), the Monin slogan that is still inspiring the company today. In the year 1912, Georges Monin founded the Monin Company in Bourges, France. Monin has since become the leading producer of flavorings used in restaurants, coffeehouses, bars, and homes in over 100 countries.
Monin syrups come in classic flavors, as well as organic and sugar free. You can use these premium gourmet flavorings to create your own signature beverages. A couple examples of flavors that are offered include almond, caramel, pineapple, and watermelon. There are also tea syrups like lemon, mango, peach, and raspberry.
Many awards have been given to Monin for their high quality flavorings; they use the finest ingredients and flavors from around the world. Monin features matchless versatility, flavor authenticity, and a long shelf life without refrigeration.
Amber Paulson is a Driver in the Bay Area
In the Mix
We call him Chef Boy Are We Caffeinated. Our resident mix-master shares another secret recipe.
By Joshua Kaplan
Tony’s Raspberry Orange White Mocha Chill
As the weather gets warmer, the demand for new and amazing iced drinks grows stronger. Luckily, I have an arsenal of iced drinks in my tool belt. This is one of my absolute favorites. Who doesn’t love the combo of orange, raspberry and white chocolate? Add Tony’s Classico Espresso to the mix and…. Wow! I originally stumbled upon this while working on hot drink recipes and recently tried it iced. A very refreshing treat!
What you will need:
• Juice from one small orange
• Peel from one small orange
• 1 1/2 cups water
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 6-1oz shots of perfectly pulled Tony’s Classico Espresso
• 2 shots Stirling Raspberry Syrup
• 4 shots Stirling White Lightning Syrup
• 2 cups whole milk
Start by juicing, removing all pulp of the orange and slicing the peel up in to 4-6 small pieces. Bring water to a boil in saucepan. Add sugar and orange peels. Simmer on low for 6 minutes covered, stirring occasionally. Let cool and remove peels. Mix espresso shots and syrups together and add to saucepan. Add Juice and milk. Stir. Pour over lots and lots of crushed ice in pint glass. Serve with an orange slice and fresh raspberries. Enjoy!
Joshua Kaplan is Territory Manager in the Bay Area
President's Message
The proof of the pudding is in the eating.
I take Cervantes’ quote and its more familiar shortened version—“the proof’s in the pudding”—to mean that in order to truly test something, you must experience it. Never truer then when it comes to evaluating coffee quality. So what is the best way to “experience” coffee?
Over the years I’ve tried many brewing methods—formal cupping procedures, my mother-in-law’s percolator pot, the $10,000 Clover, the $3 clever plastic Mellita cone, French press, and all brands of home brewers, commercial urns and drip brewers.
Of course, no brewing method improves the coffee. The best method simply extracts or reveals those qualities in the coffee that resulted from ideal genetics, climate, soil, picking, green processing, grading, sorting, green storage, roasting and packaging—all great topics for future articles, by the way.
Recently, I’ve been spending a considerable amount of time with my Hario siphon brewer and I have to say it has now replaced the Mellita cone on the top of my list. In my experience, it is the best brewing method to accentuate the special qualities of the extraordinary, lighter roasted, high acidity, fruity and sweet coffees that I prefer. The result is a consistently clean and bright cup. And the process itself is always a real crowd pleaser.
If you are unfamiliar with the siphon or “vacuum” brewer, do a quick internet search. Once you’ve get your hands on one of these babies, here’s what I recommend to get as close to the perfect extraction as possible.
H2O
I recommend spring water (or tap water if you’re fortunate enough to live in an area serviced by good quality water). We’re looking for some decent mineral content (i.e. 50-100 parts per million).
TEMPERATURE
Get the water in the lower carafe to a rolling boil. Go ahead and invest in a $25 butane burner, and replace the oil candle that comes stock with the unit. The butane burner is so much faster and cleaner that it’ll mean the difference between regularly using your siphon brewer and having it collect dust.
GRIND
Fair warning, the following recommendation comes from a seasoned espresso drinker whose idea of a milk-based drink is a macchiato. If I’m making the coffee for my own consumption, I use a slightly coarser than home espresso grind. Normal folks would probably prefer auto drip grind. Always remember that finer equates to stronger and coarser equates to weaker. And just make sure you grind as you go! Freshness in roast and grind really matters.
RATIO
There is no hard and fast rule. The SCAA Golden Cup standard is 3.5 oz. (weight) of coffee to 64 fluid oz. of water. I’ve always preferred 4 to 64, both because it’s easier to do the math, and results in a stronger cup. For my 3-cup Hario (16 fluid oz. at maximum capacity) that equates to 1 oz. (or about 1/8 cup) of coffee.
TURBULANCE
The key here is to make sure that all of the ground coffee participates equally in the extraction process. Maintaining a rolling boil in the lower carafe does a pretty good job of tumbling the coffee in the upper carafe. For insurance, as the water rises into the coffee, I usually give a couple of quick stirs with my favorite, multi-colored, antique African wooden spoon. Any non-metal spoon will do, just please, don’t crack the glass carafe – replacement parts are hard to come by.
EXTRACTION TIME
Like most of these factors, personal preference plays a role – a longer extraction time results in deeper though potentially bitter brew; a shorter extraction results in a thinner and potentially weak brew. My preference is one minute of good tumbling and then I kill the flame. Within another minute, the coffee has cooled enough for gravity to pull the liquid through the filter and into the lower carafe.
FILTER
My Hario came with a metal disk with a half dozen pencil sized holes covered with a fine cotton cloth filter. Even with my recommended finer grind, this filter does a terrific job of producing the ultimate in “clean” brewing. For those that prefer their coffee a bit “chewy” or “cloudy”, you’ll want to stick with your trusty French press.
Oh, and by the way, this brewing method has serious potential for commercial application! There are a growing number of coffee retailers who have added siphon brewed coffee to their menu. And they are not shy about charging for that small pot of coffee (i.e. more than enough to make a small investment in equipment, training and extra care very worthwhile).
Your first taste of siphon brewed coffee will leave an impression you and your customers will look forward to repeating.
Until next time, happy brewing. And remember the proof’s in the cup!
Todd Elliott is President & CEO |
